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Photoessay: Western Way Ramble, October ’17

western way, hill of Doon panorama, DOnal Kelly photography

Dull, damp, October. A pheasant in the middle of the road. I always have the wrong lens, and he flies off before I can find another. The road ends, a track begins. Fading signposts point out the Western Way. A gaggle of houses perched over the Corrib. Honeysuckle.

Leaves on the ground turning to sodden mush. I make slow progress, booted, stopping, stooping, trying to see, to grasp. Grasses, mosses, ferns, lichens, mushrooms; endless details of the mundane. I do not know their names. I am a surface junkie. I can name some of the trees: birch, beech, oak, chestnut. Names are surfaces too.

A pair of dark-haired donkeys. I scratch one’s ears. Sheep stare from the ruins of old homes. Forestry, some cut, with saplings growing in plastic tubes. Streams, pools, and the lake. Surfaces and depths. I wonder is there anything there to see, or if I am just more water streaming into a pool. My boots sink into a soft hole: I have left the road, clambered to the shore. A tree has fallen on the edge, still living, laid out in the waves. Maam rises to the North.

I stop where the ground turns to wetter exposed bog, and head back up to the car. It darkens. Raindrops. Am I taking the same photograph again and again? If you keep going back to a place, do you tread any deeper? It is important to re-tread, to exist in spaces at different times, in different moods and seasons. The water will have changed. Yet in our minds we carry static snaps, snipped from one visit or compressed from a mass of passings. It is so hard to see the places where you commute every day. It is hard to see what seems to be always there. It is not always there.

We need to go back when we can see the change, or try to change how we see. We change regardless, without pause, without effort, and it is hard to catch. Maybe it is an accumulation, or maybe a flow: a river path eroding lines through fracturing terrain, down to some waiting pool.

Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography
Western Way, galway, oughterard, lough corrib, october, autumn, connemara, ireland photos, Donal Kelly photography

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Lough Corrib and the Owenriff River by Kayak in Winter

Lough Corrib Ireland flooded island in winter

Here it comes, there it goes. The Christmas break, with its long buildup and heavily marketed stature, has already left the building before it seemed to even arrive.

The rains barely paused for breath, though the good winds provided enough breath for all. Under the twinklings of dangling lights blowing in the breezing rain, ’tis the season’ bells barely tinkled before being bundled back into boxes until the next rendition.

We had the lights barely untangled. Plans to untangle the spent year in my brain and my brain to untangle for the year to come fogged up like a stubborn windscreen. Through that foggy glass things seemed no clearer than before. Clarity maybe comes from commitment to some version of events or other.

2015 might be the year of obsessive notification-checking, or the year of film photography, or a year of solidifying yesterness, or less or more of all these things if considering.

The water levels have broken records, with the shoreline exploring new curves along many a distant acre of field and shrub.

Indoors, in the bubble of days with names, family, television, turkey, and people in every room, time just whips away the last week of the year.

On the only calm clear day I was free, I took a borrowed Kayak to the high waters of the Corrib, with nary another floating human in sight, and rowed two blisters worth from Baurisheen to the head of the Owenriff and up past the boathouse and under the bridge at Eighterard and eventually all the way home in the darkening.

It is a world of
birds disturbed,
hulls upturned,
limbs of leafless tress sketched into the face of the river

To get under the bridge I had to fling myself forward then let my back fall flat onto the kayak hull, and still the bottom of the bridge concrete almost touched my nose. I failed the first time and wondered how safe the idea was with such a rush of water and nobody around and three grand of water-speckled camera gear between my knees, but I tried again.

It is a world of
current and flow,
never the same when you come back,
even if you never go.

In any case, not far after I got tired of battling the strengthening current that tore down in the narrower sections, and I flipped the little plastic boat around. Now it tears back down on the swell.

photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
photos oughterard lough corrib owenriff river kayaking donal kelly
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Spring Fishing (poem)

A punt on the shore of Lough Corrib Baurisheen

Spring Fishing

Am I in a trap?
Did I build it myself?

The punt bobs on the waves between Broochen and the point of Fournaugh
This is no weather for fishing; no weather for anything bar the

Seat next to the Stanley and the kettle hissing for tea
And the steam of decades sunk in dust and debris

Am I in a dream?
Is it my dream?

The oars dip in and out of the cold rolling still-winter water
Tufted ducks scatter over the Sandy as workers over

Those bridges in London built thick for the traffic
By which you once waited past six while I darted

Are you still coming?
Where will you go?

The oars squeak against the gunnel where the hand-carved oar-pins are fixed
Worn as smooth as my numb hands are rough, like

The creases of sea seen from the steel Ferry stern
While the hull cut a furrow through all that I learned

Am I still open to the air?
Can I hear the quietness out there?

The rod bends suddenly with the pull of brikeen-hooked trout
Just as I cross the Sandy’s shallow at the point where

Currents of no return meet currents of no surrender
And I am spring fishing

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Inchagoill in Summer Shades (Photos of Lough Corrib)

–Photos of Inchagoill and Lough Corrib—

After the long winter and slow-rising spring the green explosion finally happened.

The mayfly season on Lough Corrib rolled around again. Birds and fish feast on the short lived flies as they rise to the surface en masse. They are easy pickings, their defence lies in being so numerous over a short period that they can’t all be eaten. Trout pick them off as they rise up through the water and emerge into green fliers, letting their delicate long wings dry in the sun before taking off. They are poor fliers and can’t get airborne on a windy day; their only hope is to surf the waves to the shore and wait until calm to fly up. Seagulls scoop them out of the water. Agile swallows pluck them out of the sky. Spiders snare them in webs. Fishermen and enterprising kids pick them from rocks and trees, pack them into wooden boxes, buy or sell them by the dozen, impale them onto barbed steel hooks, and dangle them from long telescopic dapping roads over the surface of the lake to entice trout to a final meal.

The trout themselves end up eaten, gutted and cleaned and decapitated and baked in the oven. no less brutal but far less remote than the sanitized slabs of meat parcelled out in plastic from a supermarket.

The fuel cord that connects the tank to the outboard Johnson 9.9 engine is missing a connector. The newer Yamaha ones won’t fit. My uncles try to find one for me in their shed but no luck. Instead I head out in the punt.

It takes about an hour to row to Inchagoill from Baurisheen, with a few flies trailing behind on the off chance that a trout is dumb enough to go for them. The calm lake in the warm evening is deceptive; there are a lot of flies hatching on the surface, and near the island trout slurping them at the surface. Black winged post-mating females fly their final flights back out onto the lake, laying eggs then dying. Perhaps their spasms as they die attract fish that might otherwise be eating the fresh unmated flies with a whole day or three left to live.

The island itself is a riot of green. The amazing trees are in full leaf and a cacophony of birdsong washes into the sounds of water. Huge oak, beech, and pines spread their branches and leaves up and out towards the sun.

The island has long been a significant site. There are are two small churches. One dates back to the 5th century.

Outside in the adjoining graveyard a simple vertical grave stone is engraved with one of the oldest examples of Ogham script.

The second church dates to the 12th century and is more ornate, with carvings over the doorway. A japanese yew once grew by the entrance, but was cut down as the huge roots threatened to damage the 900 year old building. The stone is weathered and riddled with small holes, punctured by hundreds of years of erosion, seasons of wind and rain against the carvings. Unlike the dense green life that returns with fresh leaves every year, the stones remain to live long and slowly wear away.

It takes me 40 minutes to row home, some slight ripples blowing from the south, and the sun going down in the distance over the maamturks. The oars cut into the water with a rhythm of little splashes. I count the strokes until I get distracted.

A late dinner: trout, potatoes, carrots. The old cat sits at my feet meowing for more as soon as she gets the scent.

Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland
Inchagoill, Maflies, Lough Corrib, Oughterard, Galway, Ireland